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Week 2 - Gallup to Corpus Christi; White Sands

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S	M	T	W	T	F	S
June			22	23	24	25
26	27	28	29	30	1	2
3	4	5	6	7	8	9
10	11	12	13	14	15	16
17	18	July

Friday 1 July 1994: In the morning we explored the derelict ranch house, which still had some signs of civilisation - kitchen shelves, a wardrobe in the bedroom etc. - although it seemed to have been abandoned for 30 years or so. Continuing south on deserted roads, we learned it was the custom in these parts to wave at all passing traffic. After 50 miles, the town of Carrizozo appeared, which claimed to have a population of 12000; this seemed to be about a ten fold exaggeration. This place seemed especially hot, and rather windy. A few miles west along US 380 is the Valley of Fires Recreation Area, a large expanse of black lava twisted into many tortuous forms. There was quite a lot of grass growing on the lava near the visitors centre, which spoilt the effect a bit - the lava fields around Sunset Crater were more spectacular, and blacker. There was also a basic RV site at the centre, with views of the lava (about $5 to stay), which was completely empty.

After this we returned to road 54 and had a rather monotonous drive south to Alamogordo. All of the land on the west side was reserved for the military to test missiles - on the map, this was the largest area in New Mexico without any roads or towns marked (100 x 60 miles). Contained within is the Trinity Site, location of the first detonation of an atomic bomb, which is open to the public on 2 days each year. The area certainly looked completely barren and uninviting. At first, we didn't stop at Alamogordo and drove along US 70 past the Holloman Air Force Base to White Sands National Monument. The sands in question, subject of a recent cinema film, were visible in the distance from some miles north of Alamogordo, but when we arrived, the park (and US 70) were about to be closed for two hours due to a missile test - a regular occurrence, apparently. So, we went back to the town (a rather drab place) and booked in at the Evergreen RV site.

Returning to White Sands, this time we were able to enter the park. The place was amazing - miles and miles of pure white gypsum powder with the distant mountains shimmering in the intense heat (well over 100 degrees). Initially we walked along the circular Big Dune Trail, which had more warnings about carrying water. This was advertised as being a one hour trip, but after a leisurely stroll around, we were back after 20 minutes. After this, the road went further into the dunes. Some dunes were gradually moving with the wind; parts of the road have to be swept clear every few days, and eventually diversions will have to be built. The dunes became larger, and more devoid of vegetation until the road ended in a series of large cleared areas, which were not gravelled, but just built by flattening the sands. According to our thermometer, the temperature was 110 in the shade; with the sun reflecting off the white earth it felt even hotter. Walking in the dunes, with no other footsteps apart from those of birds and lizards, was an unforgettable experience. This is definitely a place you must visit. Unfortunately as evening approached, low hazy clouds appeared so there was no sunset - this is supposed to be especially spectacular. Instead, we returned to the RV site for a relaxing evening listening to our neighbour's choice of music (Coolio).

White Sands

Campsite at Alamogordo

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