Week 1 - Phoenix to Gallup; Across the Navajo Reservation
Monday 27 June 1994: We were awoken by the sound of heavy timber
lorries driving past; apart from this, it was a very peaceful place with pretty trees and
flowers and lots of birds singing. The first half of the day was spent retracing our
steps across the Kaibab Plateau, past the Vermilion Cliffs and Marble Canyon until
we turned east along US 160 into Indian country - road 264 through
Moenkopi - driving through relatively barren and
featureless terrain. The road crossed from Navajo territory to Hopi to Apache and
back to Navajo and traversed the three Mesa (imaginatively named First, Second and
Third). We saw tumbleweed along the fences, Indians riding horses and several
'shanty' towns - all very atmospheric, but rather shabby. Finally, after 20 miles due
north on road 191 we arrived at Chinle and found a free RV
site, where alcohol was apparently not allowed, but mosquitoes seemingly were. In
the evening there was the sound of distant chanting and Indian drums, but also several
loud sirens which weren't so welcome.
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