The South Kaibab Trail, the less travelled of the two maintained Grand Canyon South Rim paths begins along the side road to Yaki Point, a short distance along the East Rim Drive. It is no longer possible to park at the trailhead as the side road has been closed to all private vehicles; instead there is a free shuttle bus that links to the main visitor center complex. For most of its 6.5 mile length the path follows a ridge and so has extensive views along the canyon in both directions, however there is little shade. The trail descends 4,820 feet in total; there is drinking water at the start and at the river but not in between. Hence because of steepness, exposure to the sun and lack of water the South Kaibab is more difficult and strenuous than the Bright Angel although it is slightly more scenic.
Start of the Trail: The path begins by descending along a short side ravine but soon the walls open out allowing for magnificent views both west and especially east along the canyon. After 1.5 miles and a descent of 940 feet there are restrooms along Cedar Ridge, which is a sensible target for a half day hike; certainly far fewer people progress beyond. The trail continues fairly straight, going down steadily but not too steeply, curves around O'Neill Butte after 2.5 miles and then descends very sharply with a long series of switchbacks towards the Tonto Plateau after 4 miles.
Inner Canyon Gorge: An easier, flatter section passes a place known as The Tip Off which is just above the rim of the Inner Canyon Gorge - here there are more restrooms and an emergency phone. The rocks in the canyon walls opposite are especially stratified and colorful - many shades of red and purple. The last section is steep again, especially the part just above the river, which is clearly visible for the last mile or so of the descent. At the end of the trail there is a short tunnel which leads directly onto a suspension bridge, one of two which cross the river (the other is for the Bright Angel Trail, half a mile downstream). The bridge is sturdy enough but it is still a little alarming to be perched high above the muddy, fast-flowing river, swaying slightly in the wind.
Around the River: After a short distance along the north side of the Colorado one arrives at the Phantom Ranch buildings - a guest house, campsite, mule stables, etc. and suddenly, lots of people - most of the trail is pleasingly empty especially during the middle of a hot, sunny day in August when I went. There is drinking water provided, from a hand pump, and plenty of cool places to rest alongside the nearby Bright Angel Creek; from here the North Kaibab Trail leads to the North Rim visitor complex, 14 miles away. Some people stay the night at the ranch before hiking out the next day but this requires booking a long time in advance - maybe up to one year. This is also the place to phone for help if needed. I managed to hike back to the top on the same day, a 6.5 hour round trip (13 miles). The hardest places on the return journey were the steepest; just after the suspension bridge, and the climb up from the Tonto Plateau after 3 miles. Despite the oft-repeated warnings of the NPS never to attempt to walk from rim to river and back in one day, I see no reason why fit hikers should not attempt the trip.
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