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Paria River > The Paria River
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The Paria River is the one major tributary of the Colorado between Lake Powell and the Grand Canyon; the upper reaches flow across rocky, deserted land that now forms part of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument - this is roadless for the most part, not easily accessed but with many cliffs, arches and other rock formations. Further south, the river crosses US 89 and the Arizona border, before eventually joining the Colorado at Lees Ferry. Various smaller streams join the Paria, often flowing through twisting, narrow canyons, most famous of which is Buckskin Gulch, the longest and deepest slot canyon in the USA. The whole area is pristine desert wilderness, and months could be spend exploring it. |
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The main river generally flows through quite a wide valley with gently sloping sides, and the year round waters sustain a thin corridor of greenery in this otherwise arid land which is dry for most of the year - the exception is the few miles above and below the confluence with Buckskin where the river becomes enclosed by sheer cliffs up to 1,000 feet high and in places only a few meters apart; the journey through this section is traditionally considered one of the two best extended narrow canyon hikes in the Southwest, together with the Zion Canyon Narrows.
Location: The Paria River narrows can be accessed via Buckskin Gulch, but only as part of an overnight backpacking trip as the journey to the confluence takes most of one day. Most people approach from the White House trailhead, reached from US 89, as this allows the most photogenic parts of the canyon to be visited in a single day, although continuing downstream all the way to Lees Ferry is a popular option - this trip takes 3-4 days. The trailhead is 2 miles along a gravel track that leaves US 89 just east of the bridge over the river. The BLM Paria Ranger Station is located near the start of the track, as is the self-pay fee station and a noticeboard where weather and flood danger level information are posted daily. There is a small campground at the end of the track, and a trail register. The river is just 50 yards away at this point.
Permit: The same general rules apply as for Buckskin Gulch.
Photographs: 9 views of the Paria River.
Map: TopoZone topological map of the Paria River.
Description: Near the trailhead, the Paria River is wide and shallow, flowing through a wide valley with low cliffs at the far side, much the same as the previous 35 miles. For most of the year, the water is only a few inches deep although fast flowing and quite muddy, but various different levels of deposited sand and pebbles testify to the occasional ferocious floods - even in this wide section, the river can evidently reach a depth of several feet and be many meters across. For a short time in early summer the river may be completely dry, due to lack of rain and/or upstream damming of the flow.
For half a mile after the trailhead there is a path though the grassy sandbanks along the east side of the river. Thereafter the route crosses the river many times and leads through alternating areas of higher land at both sides - some of these are quite extensive, with trees and bushes, and would make excellent places to camp.
For over 4 miles, the river valley remains quite wide although with some steep high cliffs and occasional short, narrow side canyons, until, after a long gradual bend westwards, the river turns quite sharply east and the walls close in, soon becoming around 200 feet high. Flood levels here are several meters above the normal flow. Depending on the water depth there will usually still be frequent patches of sand and stones, while also there are sections with water up to 2 feet deep - such was the case when I visited in early September, 2 days after and 6 hours before the canyon flooded. There were many areas of sticky mud, and short stretches of quicksand but nothing too dangerous.
The coffee-colored, fast-flowing waters trickle in a pleasantly noisy fashion, contributing to a memorable wilderness experience - there was no sign of other people when I visited, and around every corner appeared a new section of pretty curved rock formations with enchanting patterns of shadows and sunlight. The enjoyment was only slightly spoilt by distant thunder and eventually light rain, and a gradual (real or imagined) increase in water depth and rate of flow. Because of the approaching storm I turned back after about 1.5 miles of the narrows, about one mile before the confluence with Buckskin Gulch and 4 miles before the canyon widened again and places to climb to safety are found - there are no such escape routes in the narrows section. With rain threatening and the river already flowing quickly, it is easy to imagine a wall of water surging into view and I was somewhat relieved to reach the safety of the wider canyon.
Further downstream, the canyon is wider but becomes deeper still, although the cliffs become less steep over the final section approaching the Colorado. There are no obstacles when hiking to the confluence, although wading through water for several miles can become rather tiring. Weather conditions permitting, the 14 mile round trip is one of the best one-day hikes in the Southwest.
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