There is much evidence of past volcanic action in New Mexico, including the Capulin National Monument in the northeast, various lava plugs - inner remnants of ancient volcanoes - around Shiprock, and large lava fields around Carizozo, south of Socorro and west of Grants, together with various smaller areas. The last named is the largest, and most is contained within the El Malpais National Monument. The lava covers an area of 60 by 35 miles; I-40 crosses the northern margin, but the scenery is much better viewed from along NM 117 which runs south, through the monument. Admission is free and for 30 miles the road follows the edge of the twisted black lava deposits which stretch westwards to the horizon.
Hotels: The nearest town with hotels close to El Malpais National Monument is Grants.
The Lava: The lava beds were produced from eruptions of several volcanoes up until about 800 years ago; they have since been gradually covered by scattered trees and bushes, making the vista slightly less impressive than for example the Sunset Crater region in Arizona, which is much more black, although large areas of El Malpais are still devoid of vegetation. Several cinder cones and small craters are found in the area, mainly along the western edge. The patterns of the molten lava are still easily recognised - from large flows several meters high to small ripples at the edge of the lava course.
Paths: There are several paths that cross the jagged, hostile landscape although the routes are often not obvious and are marked only by cairns of lava fragments at intervals. One is the 7 mile Zuni-Acoma Trail, an ancient Indian route which crosses the lava between NM 117 and NM 53. The rock is very sharp and brittle - walking off trail can be dangerous as the lava often has fissures several meters deep as well being generally unstable. Below the generally black surface, the rock has lighter, reddish-grey colours, due to a longer cooling time and less exposure.
Caves: Adjacent to the National Monument, other parts of the El Malpais lava lie on land administered by the BLM, and some smaller sections are in private ownership. The BLM land contains several lava caves - these are formed when a solidified rock crust formed around still-flowing lava underneath; this lava later drained away, leaving an empty tunnel, some of which can be many miles long and contain ice all year. There are several such ice caves in the Bandera Crater region, towards the northwest of the lava beds; a fee is charged for access. There are other caves within the National Monument but reaching them is more difficult, requiring a treacherous walk of several miles.
A Natural Arch: Along NM 117, another well-known natural landmark is La Ventana Natural Arch, the largest in New Mexico, which has formed in a bend in the sandstone cliffs that flank the lava to the east. It is clearly visible just west of the road about 20 miles south of I-40. There is a short trail leading directly underneath. South of the lava flow, the little-used road continues across flat, rather featureless and uninhabited prairie until after a further 40 miles the land becomes wooded and mountainous.
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