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Headquarters Canyon, Capitol Reef National Park


Utah > Capitol Reef National Park > Hiking > Headquarters Canyon
Dark walls of Navajo sandstone
Mouth of Headquarters Canyon
Pool and bushes in Headquarters Canyon

Headquarters Canyon

Short but deep drainage on the east side of Capitol Reef, with two forks; both form brief sections of narrows, through generally dull-colored sandstone

Length: 1.3 miles (north), 1 mile (south), to see all of the canyons; 3.6 miles round trip for both forks

Elevation change: 250 feet

Difficulty: Easy; no significant obstructions

Type: One way, mostly off-trail

Usage: Low

Season: All year; hot in summer, but distances are relatively short, and the narrows are shady

Trailhead: Parking area along Notom-Bullfrog Road, 35 miles south of Hwy 24

Rating (1-5): ★★★★★
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Dozens of ravines cut through the steep east face of the Waterpocket Fold in Capitol Reef National Park, south of Hwy 24, and many form narrow slot canyons, usually where the drainage is enclosed by the Navajo sandstone layer. Those further north, where the reef is wider, tend to be quite long, further apart and sometimes difficult to follow, while to the south as the reef constricts, the drainages are closer together, shorter and so quicker to explore.

All are reached by Notom-Bullfrog Road, which for the first 20 miles passes the larger drainages, followed by a ten mile stretch with no significant canyons; the shorter ravines begin after about 30 miles, south of the junction with the Burr Trail. One of the few with an official name is Headquarters Canyon, which is the closest drainage to The Post, once an important meeting point for ranchers, and situated where the road bends east, away from the reef and the confines of the valley of Halls Creek, into more open country.

Notom-Bullfrog Road
Notom-Bullfrog Road, at the Headquarters Canyon trailhead

Headquarters Canyon is signed from the road, from where a well-defined trail crosses the flats beneath the reef for half a mile to the wash emerging from the canyon, which has two forks, close together; North (or Main) and South, both containing short slots. The Navajo sandstone hereabouts is generally dark and dull in appearance, and the canyons do not receive much sunlight, so the passages are rather gloomy. The two branches can be explored in less than two hours.

Dryfall
Narrow passage leading to a dryfall


Location


Map of Capitol Reef National Park.

Headquarters Canyon Access


The trailhead near The Post is 35 miles south along Notom-Bullfrog Road, the last 25 miles of which are unpaved. A little pull-out area to the east has space for only three vehicles, and high verges generally prevent parking alongside the road, though the remote location ensures there is rarely more than one party here at the same time. This location is 38 miles from Boulder along the Burr Trail and 28 miles from Hwy 276 near Bullfrog Marina, and hence at least an hour's drive from the nearest major highway. Camping at the trailhead ought to be possible, or at the more level parking area for Surprise Canyon, half a mile north, or at a corral half a mile south along a little side road, this the start point for long hikes to the Halls Creek narrows.

Halls Creek valley and Swap Mesa
Swap Mesa and the valley of Halls Creek



Slot
Slot through dark grey sandstone

Path to the Reef


Halls Creek valley is bordered to the east by stark, grey/brown cliffs of Mancos shale at the edge of Swap Mesa, and to the west by the red and white formations of Capitol Reef. The narrow but easy to follow path leads southwest across dusty flats with sagebrush and tumbleweed, over the steep-sided drainage of Halls Creek (usually dry), up to a low ridge beside a red rock outcrop, then down the far side to a sandy wash, at the edge of the reef. The wash emerges from the main fork of Headquarters Canyon, 900 feet north; the other fork is a similar distance south, after turning right (west), at the first junction. Both routes are cairned.

Red rocks
Thin-layered red rocks of the Carmel Formation

North Fork of Headquarters Canyon


The sandy wash rounds a bend whilst heading generally northwest, through red and purple mounds of the Carmel Formation, then turns sharply southeast at the mouth of the canyon, where the rocks change to white Navajo sandstone. Steep slopes rise on both sides; those to the north are crossed by wide reddish bands. The cliffs come together after 600 feet to form a good, deep slot, only about 300 feet long but very narrow, and free of obstructions. The ravine then widens to a box canyon containing trees and boulders - there are no more slot sections but the drainage can be followed for nearly another mile, until it gains height via an inclined slope and several dryfalls.

Boulders
Boulders and sand in a straight section of the streambed

Narrows
Flood-damaged tree at the end of a narrow passage

South Fork of Headquarters Canyon


The entrance to the south fork of Headquarters Canyon is reached by following the wash downstream then turning right up the first tributary, which like the north fork passes through a brief band of ledgy, red sandstone (from the Carmel Formation) then enters the Navajo layer. Wildflowers are plentiful along the wash and the open part of the canyons, including parsley and several species of milkvetch. The south fork takes a little longer to form a slot, about half a mile, but otherwise is similar, just not quite as narrow. Several pools may be present at the entrance but there are no significant obstacles. Beyond the slot is a wider section with trees, debris and big boulders, some recently fallen. The drainage gradually steepens then levels again and forms a second short slot, which ends at a high dryfall that curves out-of-sight above, framed much taller, vertical cliffs.

Bushes
Bushes and boulders in the canyon

Cliffs
Vertical cliffs in the middle of Capitol Reef

Headquarters Canyon Topographic Map


Map of Headquarters Canyon
Headquarters Canyon Wildflowers

Crescent milkvetch
Crescent milkvetch

Thicksepal cryptantha
Thicksepal cryptantha

Purple mustard
Purple mustard

More plants in the canyon
Nearby Canyons

Burro Wash

Cottonwood Wash

Five Mile Wash

Grand Wash

Sheets Gulch

Spring Canyon

Sulphur Creek



Headquarters Canyon - Similar Hikes


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Surprise Canyon
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Wittwer Canyon

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