From cool, shady clearings around the Bandelier National Monument visitor center, the 2.5 mile Falls Trail descends 700 feet to the desert-like conditions of the Rio Grande river valley, passing two high waterfalls and through several distinct vegetation zones. The varied scenery and wildlife make this a popular route, at least as far as the second waterfall; the end of the trail is steeper, quite exposed and therefore less busy.
The Trail: The path begins at the south end of the backpackers parking lot and follows along the south side of Frijoles Creek; soon it arrives at the 'Tent Rocks' - curious pointed columns of tuff that formed around volcanic vents. Around here, bushes and agaves start to replace the pine trees as the canyon deepens and the temperature rises; this effect is particularly noticeable at one point after about 1 mile where the path rounds a bend and changes direction; there is an abrupt switch to open country with many cacti and other desert plants. By this stage, the canyon has eroded through the light-colored tuff layers, in which the Anasazi dwellings upstream were carved, into the much darker and harder layers of underlying basalt. For the most part, the path is generally quite far above the creek, which becomes enclosed in several deep, narrow channels. There are many whiptail lizards in the canyon; other wildlife includes snakes, deer and several types of brightly-colored birds.
The Waterfalls: After 1.25 miles there is a viewpoint of the Upper Falls, which are rather hidden and in shadow for most of the day. Beyond, the trail starts to descend more steeply and crosses the stream shortly above the Lower Falls - these become visible a little way further by looking back. The last half mile of the path runs close to the creek, through bushes and long grass, before the confluence with the Rio Grande. The main river is slow moving, flowing through a V-shaped canyon with sparse vegetation and unusual, differently colored rock walls; generally the area around the junction is quite barren-looking and has a feeling of remoteness. In summer many biting flies inhabit the reeds and grass around the river, but do not persist very far up Frijoles Canyon. A rough path follows the Rio Grande south though White Rock Canyon eventually leading to Cochiti Lake after 14 miles. Nearby is the Cochiti pueblo, whose inhabitants claim descent from the Anasazi cave-dwellers of Frijoles Canyon.
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