The Green River originates near the continental divide in the 13,000 foot Wind River mountains of central Wyoming. By the time its waters flow into the Gulf of California, after joining the Colorado, they will have passed through six National Park or Forest Service units - the first is Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area (NRA), centred around a large artificial lake formed by the Flaming Gorge Dam. The other five are
Dinosaur,
Canyonlands,
Glen Canyon,
Grand Canyon and
Lake Mead.
Landscape: The gorge is managed by the US Forest Service as part of the Ashley National Forest and offers varied recreational activities including fishing, boating, swimming, camping and rock climbing. The most scenic area of the NRA is in Utah where the lake lies beneath steep red cliffs, on account of which the canyon was originally named in 1869 by the famous one armed explorer John Wesley Powell, whilst on his travels along the Green and Colorado rivers. However, most of the lake lies in Wyoming; the river has been flooded for 91 miles above the dam, almost as far north as the namesake town of Green River on I-80.
The West: There are few facilities in the Wyoming part of Flaming Gorge - here the landscape is high desert, not especially scenic, with low scrub-covered hills sloping gently down to the water. The main north-south road WY 530 passes along the west side of the lake a few
miles from the shore and about a dozen dirt tracks lead towards the water. The two tracks I tried (FR 006 and FR 164/150) are quite steep in places but generally in good condition; they split into several branches near the shore and lead to pleasant, flat beaches where overnight parking is possible just a few feet from the lakeside. There were no signs of any other visitors, but a wide assortment of wildlife - cows, antelope, lizards, rabbits and many species of birds, plus the more dangerous scorpions and western rattlesnakes. There are a couple of officially designated water-side campsites along the west shore with paved access roads although it seems possible to stay free almost anywhere.
The East: Approaching the reservoir from the mountainous east side is less easy - there is a main road (US 191) but this is generally about 15 miles away from the water, although it is more scenic than WY 530, climbing up to 8,000 feet and crossing an impressive, deserted landscape of peaks and valleys. However the unpaved Flaming Gorge Road (RD 33) does follow the east shoreline for most of the lake and offers some access points. US 191 crosses into Utah and goes over the dam, 500 feet above the downstream water level.
The Dam: Flaming Gorge Dam was completed across what was Red Canyon as recently as 1964 after 6 years of construction, and may be visited free of charge. Either guided or self-guiding tours are available. To the east, Red Canyon continues in its original state across a little-visited area of Utah towards the Dinosaur National Monument.
Hotels: The nearest Utah town with hotels close to Flaming Gorge is Vernal.
The South: West of the lake, road WY 530 becomes UT 44 after the town of Manila and the land begins to rise as the Uinta Mountains approach; these are the only major east-west range in the USA and extend 100 miles westward to Salt Lake City. The character of the lake changes as it becomes enclosed by steep cliffs - there is a particularly scenic section as the road winds around Sheep Creek Bay, an inlet at the end of a long valley formed along the Uinta fault zone and which has tilted red and white stratified ridges extending for many miles in most directions. A paved road follows the twisted sedimentary layers west along Sheep Creek Canyon - this region is officially protected as a Geological Area, and costs $3 to enter. The first 6 miles have the best formations, then the road turns southeast, crossing higher land with trees and meadows, and eventually rejoins the main highway.
Red Canyon: Beyond the bay, UT 44 moves away from the water and climbs into a hilly pine forested area. After a few miles a short side-road leads to the Red Canyon visitor center, built right on the edge of the cliffs which are over 1,000 feet high at this point. Part of the exhibition room overhangs the gorge, giving rather uncomfortable views vertically down to the water far below. There is a short nature trail leading to an promontory with overlooks up and down the canyon, and a longer path that follows the canyon rim eastwards. Between the visitor center and the dam are many campsites and picnic areas, although most are in the woods of the Ashley National Forest and not very near the lake.
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Flaming Gorge - Similar Places
Lake Powell, Utah - large lake on the Colorado River, with countless rocky side canyons
Lake Mead, Arizona/Nevada - another artificial lake in desert country south of Las Vegas |
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