496,600 acres of cactus plains and rugged mountain ranges southwest of Phoenix became, in 2001, the Sonoran Desert National Monument, one of four new BLM-administered zones in Arizona. Unlike NPS national monuments, the Sonoran Desert has very few facilities and no central attraction; its purpose is mainly to protect the historic sites, native habitats, vegetation and wildlife rather than attract visitors. The designated area spans 25 miles of I-8, with about half to the south, comprising the Table Top Wilderness, Vekol Valley and part of the Sand Tank Mountains, and half to the north, centered on the North and South Maricopa Mountain Wilderness. So now almost all of the Arizona desert south of I-8 is protected or used in some way, either within Indian Reservations, the Luke Air Force Base, or preserves of the NPS and BLM. There is however plenty of empty Sonoran desert in the state that still has no special protection beyond existing wilderness areas, between I-8 and I-10, and between the Colorado Rover and US 95, land which is just as scenic as this new monument.
Roads: Interstate 8 is the only major highway through the Sonoran Desert National Monument, and exits 151, 144 and 140 allow access to the back country via a network of rough tracks. Another possible route is the little travelled Maricopa Road (AZ 238) between Maricopa and Gila Bend, though this was closed at the east end when I visited (spring 2004). Apart from these two, only dirt roads cross the desert, all of which may require 4WD in some places or at some times of year. Despite the emptiness, the desert is not completely undeveloped as there are several maintained trailheads in the pre-existing wilderness areas, and BLM rangers now patrol the back roads quite regularly.
The South: Exit 144 of I-8 is the main entrance, and from here quite a good gravel track heads south, past one of the new BLM monument welcome signs, and along the wide plains of Vekol Valley - sandy, level land with scattered bushes and cacti. To the east is the Table Top Mountains Wilderness, rising to a high point of 4,374 feet at Table Top itself, a flat topped volcanic summit, and one of the few locations with a recognised trail. The trailhead is reached by taking a left turn 6.8 miles from the interstate then driving another 4.5 miles along a rather rougher track, and has a small parking area plus a three site primitive campground. The trail is 3.5 miles (one-way), climbs over 2,000 feet and has panoramic views over the surrounding desert. One other maintained path (Lava Flow Trail) traverses the western slopes of the mountains, in places over basalt rocks and lava, though mostly over dry washes and through bushy flatland. It has three trailheads, one along the Table Top road, the other two reached from side tracks of Vekol Valley road.
On west side of Vekol Valley are the cactus-covered White Hills, which are quite close to the road and so are good for short explorations, then beyond are the much larger Sand Tank Mountains, most of which are owned by the military and require a permit to explore. A little further west, I-8 exit 140 is the start of another track into the mountains, and also of a short, disused side road, parallel to the interstate and about half a mile from it, which makes a perfect place to camp - out of direct sight from the highway, and overlooking large areas of saguaro forest to the south.
The North: The section of Sonoran Desert National Monument north of the interstate encloses the two ranges of the Maricopa Mountains, and is bordered by AZ 85 to the west and the Little Rainbow Valley in the northeast. Besides the desert and mountain scenery, this contains a section of the Anza National Historic Trail, and like the southern portion, has two recognised trails, both in the Northern Maricopa Mountains Wilderness. The southern wilderness is the most remote in the national monument, with no trails or 4WD tracks.
Hotels: The nearest towns with hotels close to Sonoran Desert National Monument are Gila Bend and Casa Grande.
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Sonoran Desert National Monument - Similar Places
Kofa Wildlife Refuge, Arizona - desert region with a distinct sense of isolation
Saguaro National Park, Arizona - mountainous area near Tucson with many large cacti | |
