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Beyond the Painted Desert, much of the far northeast of Arizona is barren and not particularly scenic, as the land forms wide empty valleys interspersed by low, scrub-covered mesas. Three of these, named the First, Second and Third, lie at the center of Hopi Indian territory but most of the northeast is Navajo land, including Chinle which is the largest town in the area and the gateway to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. This comparatively little-known canyon is not as immediately spectacular as others in Arizona or Utah but it does have sheer sandstone walls rising up to 1,000 feet, several scenic overlooks, many well-preserved Anasazi ruins and an insight into the present day life of the Navajo, who still inhabit and cultivate the valley floor.
The Navajo: Just east of the town, the muddy, seasonal Chinle Wash enters the beginning of the canyon, where the walls are only a few meters high, but they rise sharply after a short distance so that there is only one possible entrance for vehicles, next to the river. A sandy track leads alongside the wash to the scattered settlements and ancient ruins, but all visiting vehicles must be accompanied by a guide. The canyon floor remains green and fertile all year round; this, together with the protection offered by the rocky walls and the beauty of the landscape explain why the valley has been inhabited for so long - from primitive peoples 2000 years ago, through the Anasazi civilisation of the twelfth century which occupied a large area of the Southwest before suddenly disappearing, to the Navajo who have lived here for the last 300 years. They still rear sheep and goats in the canyon, and plant crops.
Scenic Drives: The Canyon de Chelly system actually comprises four main gorges (Canyon del Muerto, Black Rock Canyon, Canyon de Chelly and Monument Canyon - see map), plus many side ravines, branching eastwards from Chinle into the Defiance Plateau. Most of it may be reached only at rim level via rough, unpaved tracks - just the northernmost and southernmost edges are accessible from paved roads; the North Rim Drive (Indian Reservation 64) links Chinle with the north-south route IR 12 and passes several overlooks. The South Rim Drive is not a through road but offers more dramatic vistas then the north road, ending at the most spectacular viewpoint, the overlook of Spider Rocks - twin 800 foot towers of rock isolated from the canyon walls and a site of special significance for the Navajo - according to legend, the Spider Woman lives on top and keeps the bones of her victims there. Beyond the rocks, the main canyon continues unseen for many miles.
White House Ruins: Canyon de Chelly National Monument is administered as part of the National Park Service but since it lies on Navajo land, admission is free. However, unsupervised access is restricted to the rim overlooks and to a single trail into the canyon, leading to the White House Ruins, as for all other trips down or along the canyon, a Navajo escort is required. These ruins date from about 1200 and are some of the oldest in the canyon. The trailhead is seven miles along the south rim drive; the one mile trail is rocky and steep in places but well-maintained and not too difficult - it takes between 25 and 50 minutes to get down, depending on your fitness. There are a couple of short tunnels, plenty of cacti and lizards, and the track passes a farm and an orchard before crossing the stream to the ruins. Near the stream, just before the second tunnel, there is an interesting short-cut down a narrow gully, using old foot-holes carved in the sandstone walls.
Once at the White House, rest rooms and Indian jewelry sellers detract a little from the experience but the delicate well-preserved buildings beneath the 500 foot sheer cliff are well worth the trip. Despite the pleasures of walking, most visitors prefer to take the Navajo jeep tours, which visit various locations along the canyon and last for all or half of a day.
The Campsite: The national monument has a well-stocked visitor center, near which is an excellent free campsite (the
Cottonwood Campground) with basic facilities - though no showers - and plenty of sites, nestled beneath large cottonwood trees. Like Chinle itself, the site also has many stray dogs, but they tend to be friendly and well-behaved.
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Canyon de Chelly - Similar Places
Colorado National Monument, Colorado -
another dramatic sandstone canyon of comparable dimensions | |
Canyon de Chelly Accommodation: There are two chain hotels in Chinle.
Holiday Inn Canyon de Chelly (Chinle) - For those not camping, the nearest hotel in town is the Holiday Inn Canyon de Chelly, at Garcia Trading Post, less than one mile west of the national monument along Indian Route 7. The 108 room hotel shares a complex with several restaurants and is within walking distance of all the limited facilities in Chinle. Interiors are bright and modern, the staff helpful, and the hotel has all the expected amenities, including an outdoor heated pool, exercise room, gift shop, and dining/room service from the adjacent Garcia's Restaurant.
Check rates at the Holiday Inn Canyon De Chelly
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Best Western Canyon de Chelly Inn - The Best Western hotel in Chinle is a mile or so further west, at 100 Main Street, 1 block from US 191. The hotel and its rooms have a distinctive Southwestern style, and the Native American culture of the region is reflected in both the decor and cuisine of the in house Junction Restaurant, serving breakfast, lunch & dinner. The hotel offers clean, spacious lodging in the care of friendly staff; it was partially renovated in 2007, and also features an indoor pool, hot tub, steam room, guest laundry, and a gift shop selling a wide selection of locally-made jewelry.
Check rates at Best Western Canyon de Chelly Inn
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Selection of Canyon de Chelly National Monument books, from amazon.com:
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