An easy trail starts near Zion Lodge, half way along Zion Canyon, and heads towards the mountains opposite, following a stream up past a sheet waterfall to the Emerald Pools - an intrinsically peaceful, secluded location which is now sometimes over-visited. In summer large crowds climb up to the first of the pools, take a few photographs and hurry back down without seeing any of the smaller, more hidden ponds or the large mini-lake further up, at the foot of another, much higher waterfall.
The Trail: After crossing the Virgin River via a footbridge, two alternative routes lead to the lower pools - one follows the river then the stream, ascending gently to a wide overhang beneath a curving cliff face, where several elongated waterfalls flow from the pools above. The path passes behind the cascades, which cause pretty rainbow-like light patterns if the sun is appropriately oriented, although the water flow dries up almost completely during summer. A brisk climb completes the 20 minute walk to the first pools. The stream feeding them flows down the overgrown hillside beyond, with other sheltered, tree-lined pools and small waterfalls between a jumble of boulders. There is no trail, but scrambling up the streamway is easy enough.
Upper Emerald Pool: Rather fewer people continue to the upper pool - another half mile along a steeper, rockier trail with an additional 350 foot elevation gain. Beneath a high cliff of colorful, streaked sandstone lies a large pool, deep enough for swimming most of the year, a practice once allowed but now prohibited to protect water quality and aquatic life. During winter and spring a powerful waterfall cascades down the rock face though in summer this dries up completely. The waters originate from Heaps Canyon, a long drainage with many narrow passages, waterfalls and deep potholes - probably the most demanding of Zion's technical slot canyons, this flows for 10 miles across the high country above, ending with a drop of 150 meters into the upper pool.
The Return Path: From the cliff edge in front of the lower pool there is a fine view over the wooded Virgin River valley. The alternative return route stays level for a while, traversing the cliffs back towards the main canyon with more sweeping views, then switchbacks down to the river. A round trip, including a visit to the Upper Pool, takes around 2 hours.
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