Most of the
north rim of the Grand Canyon is quite inaccessible by road; one exception is
the Tuweep area in the distant northwest corner of the National Park, but a
journey here requires some determination and advance preparation. This region -
"One of the most remote in the United States" according to the NPS, is reached
only by one of three lengthy dirt tracks, that start from St. George (Utah),
Colorado City or near Pipe Spring National Monument (both in Arizona) - these
cross wild, uninhabited land for 97, 62 and 64 miles respectively. There are no
facilities of any kind in this desert country and visitors need to be
completely self-sufficient. The roads are generally suitable for standard cars
but some sections become impassable after rains, and others are steep and
rocky. The final few miles leading to the canyon rim are narrower and uneven,
with sharp gradients and patches of bare rock but I made the trip
(the Pipe Spring route) without incident in a
25 foot RV. The trouble taken is rewarded by complete solitude and stunning
views over the inner Colorado gorge, with the added attractions of colorful
volcanic scenery and very few other people.
The Campsite: The Tuweep (also known as Toroweap)
overlook has a primitive campsite on a rocky plateau half a mile from the
canyon rim - this has an excellent setting with colorful cliffs visible in all
directions including those of the inner gorge to the south, and with
flourishing desert vegetation. A gentle stroll for a few hundred yards
eastwards across sand and slickrock reaches the canyon edge, and affords a
private view of the Colorado River, almost 3,000 feet directly below. Some of
the huge rocks at the canyon edge are split and uneven, and it is slightly
unsettling to stand at the very edge, and gaze into the chasm below.
Viewpoints: The official canyon viewpoint is nearer
to very end of the road, 0.9 miles from the main campground, where a narrow
ridge extends a short distance westward, then the ground falls away and in
front stretches a magnificent view over several miles of the Colorado River, to
and beyond the Lava Falls rapids, where the river drops by 13 feet - the
steepest drop in the park, and with dramatic red and black lava flows over the
cliffs at either side. The canyon rims have various cinder cones surrounded by
unusual volcanic rocks, which are especially colorful in Prospect Canyon,
a branch that joins the main gorge from the south just upstream of the rapids. The
largest in the vicinity of the overlook is Vulcans Throne, a 600 foot hill that
dominates the north canyon rim at this point.
Lava: The vulcanism occurred relatively recently
compared to the other geologic events that shaped the canyon - at various times
up until 30,000 years ago when a series of eruptions covered the northern
plateau with lava over 30 miles in extent which also poured into the canyon and
blocked the river flow for up to 2 years. The waters eventually broke through
but evidence of the blockage remains in the steep lava-covered slopes and
river-deposited sediment in cliff alcoves high above the river.
Trails: Two rough, undeveloped trails start from near
the Toroweap overlook. One is the Tuckup Trail, reached by a 4WD track which
branches off the main approach road about 1 mile before the campsite and
follows the canyon on a generally level rock layer high above the river for
over 70 miles. Some parts have alternative road access, and there are
occasional difficult routes down to the river. The other is the
Lava Falls Trail - this starts beneath the
west side of Vulcans Throne, and heads down a steep slope with unstable lava
blocks and many switchbacks to the Colorado, close to the rapids.
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Photography
Photographs - 11 views of the Tuweep area
QTVR - panorama taken from Lava Falls Overlook: small | large |
More Information
Access - the 65 mile unpaved approach from AZ 389
Lava Falls Trail - a steep and difficult route to the Colorado |
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