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Buckskin Gulch - Trail Description


Slot Canyons > Paria River > Buckskin Gulch > Trail Description
Narrowing cliffs at the Wire Pass confluence
Undercut

This is an account of a trip from the Wire Pass trailhead, down Buckskin Gulch to the confluence with the Paria River and back, on 9th June 1998. This is a 27 mile round-trip over often difficult terrain and is not normally attempted as a day-hike. The 13.5 mile hike to the confluence is a very rewarding experience but is also strenuous, relentless and sometimes repetitive.

The times at which the various features were encountered are given, as a rough guide to estimating progress along the canyon. The exact distance from the start of Wire Pass to the confluence differs slightly according to different reports, but seems to be about 13.5 miles. The weather was good, but I (and one companion) encountered only four other groups of people all day.

Note that features such as log jams and boulder piles are subject to change as a result of the frequent flash floods that affect the canyon.


9.40 Started at the Wire Pass trailhead, a little later than planned on a windy but mainly sunny day and hiked along the sandy wash; the valley at this point is quite wide and shallow.
10.00 First narrows of Wire Pass. There are two longish sections, sometimes only 2 feet wide.
10.10 Reached the confluence with Buckskin Gulch - the second narrow section of Wire Pass opens out suddenly with a large over-hanging semi-arch in the sandstone walls to the right, with some petroglyphs on the rocks just beyond. Around the confluence, the main canyon is quite wide with boulders and some high grassy sandbanks, but the walls close in abruptly in both directions. Continuing by turning right (downstream) there is a lengthy scenic stretch of narrows with many muddy pools but the deepest was only 2 feet and so presented little problem.
10.41 Passed underneath a big log jam, many meters above near the canyon roof.
10.47 The cliffs open out; this is the beginning of the widest part of the canyon with many high sandbanks with grass, trees and wildflowers, and several possible campsites.
11.03 End of the widest section, although the Gulch remains generally quite wide and sunny for a little while longer.

Climb-out point
11:19: climb-out point

11.19 On the right (south) side there is a possible route to climb out of the canyon; I went about half-way but it seemed easy to ascend further to the desert above.
11.25 A section with largish boulders.
11.30 Became very narrow again.
11.43 A short wide area.
11.52 A second possible climb-out route, to the left (north) side up a diagonal gradient along the side of the canyon walls.
11.57 A long log firmly wedged between two boulders; this would assist climbing at least part of the way up the cliffs to the right (south).
11.59 The Gulch turns sharply to the right - this is one of several turns where the canyon seems to stop abruptly, and it is not until very close that the direction in which it continues can be seen.
12.06 Another potential route to exit the canyon, on the north side. There is a short length of rope, left by a previous climber, which helps to make an initial climb, and several possible ways to continue.
12.10 A sharp left turn, with a deep, almost dried-up pool underneath that may present quite an obstacle in wet conditions.
12.19 A long pool of sticky, stagnant mud, up to 2 feet deep, behind a recent-looking boulder pile that appeared not to have had water flowing over it yet. This is the start of a rather dark and gloomy section of the canyon, with extensive mud and several pools of cold water between narrow rocky passages.

Dark section
12.25; dark section


12.32 Another sharp left turn.
12.37 A short wider section with trees and sand, and places to camp safely.
12.41 A big tree stump, close to another pool, followed by more pools and a log wedged maybe 70 feet above. There are many such logs wedged at intervals between the canyon walls, but this was about the highest above the floor.

End of a straight passage
12.45; end of a straight passage

12.45 A longish straight section, and then more boulders. There were several raucous crows nesting around here; their cries echoed rather eerily along the dimly-lit passages.
12.50 The deepest pool - around 3 feet. There were 2 big logs soon after, jammed above the streamway, and then another deep pool..
1.00 The canyon became quite dark, narrow and cave-like, with many more cold pools. Alternating warm and cool winds blew as the passage turned right and left, with only occasional glimpses of the sun.

Angular passageway
1.04: angular passageway

1.04 A big tree stump, stuck low down; after this was a drier stretch with particularly nice, photogenic curvy walls.
1.12 A wide section, with a climb-out route on the left (north), (temporarily) marked by a stone cairn. This is the exit point to the Middle Trail and was one of several parts of the cliffs in this region on both sides that seemed climbable.
1.18 A second long straight passage, quite narrow.
1.25 Plenty of big boulders; here the Gulch was generally wider.
1.30 Green trees and bushes on the right, closely followed by an area with grassy sand banks as the canyon became temporarily V-shaped.
1.39 A huge boulder wedged above the watercourse, when the canyon narrowed again
1.52 A tree on the left marked the last possible chance for climbing out of the canyon before the confluence with the Paria River.
1.56 A grassy area on the right - another possible camping place, followed by more big boulders.
1.59 Lots of green trees at both sides - a pretty area.
2.03 More boulders for a while, then another nice narrow section with colorful walls that rise up to 400 feet above the floor.
2.20 A sharp left turn, as the canyon became darker and even narrower.
2.25 The narrowest section - only 2 feet wide.
2.30 A pile of large boulders, with a 20 foot drop downstream. The difficulty of this obstruction seems to change with each major flood; at this time it was quite easy to negotiate by climbing down a hole between wedged logs a few meters before the drop-off, under some of the boulders and through a depression that probably has water in wetter conditions to the flat canyon floor beyond. Here I rested for 15 minutes and continued alone.
2.49 A large green tree, with a semi-detached tower of rock on the right (south) soon beyond.
2.51 More trees, and a high sand bank.
2.57 Water seeping from the walls began to form a very shallow stream which flows slowly along the floor. The clear (drinkable?) water is a pleasant contrast to the numerous muddy pools encountered previously.
3.04 Large, extensive sandy banks with many trees and flat grassy areas high above the streambed - a popular location for camping.

At the confluence
3.08: at the confluence

3.08 Finally reached the confluence with the Paria River, which was fast-flowing with light brown muddy water, up to 6 inches deep. There were some sandy areas but the river generally covered all of the canyon floor.
3.18 Started the return journey.
8.10 Reached the Wire Pass trailhead, just 20 minutes before darkness set in; a total walk of 27 miles in 10.5 hours. There is not much wildlife in the canyon; I saw only crows, swifts, bats and one lonely mouse in one of the dark, damp sections, but no sign of the rattlesnakes that are supposed to be present. There were 3 dead birds, including an eagle, and other scattered bones.
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