The loop drive in Chaco Culture National Historical Park starts at the visitor center, which is well stocked with books and local information, and is just a short walk from the first collection of ruins, the Una Vida site. Most of the buildings here are unexcavated so the overall scene isn't too impressive; although there are about 150 rooms and 5 kivas (subterranean circular religious chambers), most of the site consists of earthen mounds with small piles of stones on top. Of more interest is a panel of petroglyphs on the base of the cliffs just beyond.
The next three sites are the best, and all quite similar. Hungo Pavi, Chetro Ketl and Pueblo Bonito, the oldest and largest, have massive, intricate and amazingly intact collections of buildings up to 5 storeys high with hundreds of rooms enclosed by elaborate brickwork and various well-designed styles of walls, window openings and doors. The sites are over 150 meters across and have some parts as yet uncovered. Some of the higher walls are unstable and are shored up by modern supports, and there is a certain amount of other reconstruction but most is quite authentic and original. To prevent any further decay, visitors must stay on a designated route around the ruins, and only a very few rooms can be entered. Each has a useful trail guide with numbered features of interest. A separate path links Chetro Ketl with Pueblo Bonito along the base of the cliffs, which have dozens more petroglyphs and pictographs, plus the occasional piece of modern graffiti. In a few places the Chacoans built steep trails up the cliffs by carving hand and foot holds, allowing access to the mesa tops, and some are still evident today.
A trail leading further along Chaco Canyon starts from the far end of the scenic loop and later branches into several paths to other ruins and petroglyphs - 10 miles in all. The next roadside site is Pueblo del Arroyo, a slightly smaller village at the edge of Chaco Wash and the only one in the middle of the valley, not beneath the cliffs. Today the western corner is in danger of being partially washed away, as the streambed is slowly encroaching. The south (return) side of the loop has only one village, notable as it contains the largest kiva in the whole valley - known as a 'great kiva', this is similar in size to the restored example at Aztec Ruins National Monument. Casa Rinconada was built about 1100 and also has several smaller kivas, together with an unusual rock staircase, but as with Una Vida, much of this site is still unexcavated.
Satellite Photo/Map: View above Pueblo Bonito:
|
 |
|
